Hi all, I'm new to the forum, but not to modelling. I wanted to ask some workflow questions specifically for the AMT CLEAR Class D. I've never done a clear model before, and I wanted to write out my workflow to avoid any mistakes. Can you please review this very general workflow, and let me know if you see any red flags or gaps in my process? Improvements and criticisms welcome!
General
Wash\Prep\Deburr
Sand inside model to diffuse light
Sand nacelle collectors and warp grilles
Spray black outer surfaces (not collectors or warp engine grill)
Check opacity and repeat
Spray grey outer surfaces (I'm concerned about too much paint filling in panel details due to the blackout coat, should I prime?)
Scrape/Dremel desired windows
Spray Future
Apply aztec decals
Spray matte
Check Glide characteristics from roof of parking garage
Painting
Blackout paint (recommendations?)
Clear red and clear blue (recommendations?)
Copper outside nacelle warp grills (recommendations?)
Lighting
How many in each area:
-ring of led strip in saucer (white or yellow?)
-ring of led strip in hull (white or yellow?)
-five strip blue in nacelle warp engine compartment
-two reds in collector
-firewall light bleeds as necessary
1/1400 AMT Enterprise-D Clear
- mophius
- Crafty Captain
- Posts: 1486
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2017 7:04 am
Re: 1/1400 AMT Enterprise-D Clear
Welcome to AST ensign.
For light blocking would it be possible to mask the inside of the parts and spray black to the inside for the bits you want to blackout. Then line the inside with tin foil to assist in light dispersion.
(I am no expert to lighting as I am still trying to build my first lit model).
This way you can limit the amount of paint on the outside filling in the details you want.
Windows you can get a liquid mask or for a cheaper option you can use Elmers glue which is, I presume, a white PVA which will peel off after painting.
Also after you have done the decals go for another layer of Future, it will cut down the decal step at the edge of each one. Have you used Microset and Microsol to help adhere and conform the decals?
I am sure it won't be long before one of the more experienced lighting modellers will be on to give you more feedback
For light blocking would it be possible to mask the inside of the parts and spray black to the inside for the bits you want to blackout. Then line the inside with tin foil to assist in light dispersion.
(I am no expert to lighting as I am still trying to build my first lit model).
This way you can limit the amount of paint on the outside filling in the details you want.
Windows you can get a liquid mask or for a cheaper option you can use Elmers glue which is, I presume, a white PVA which will peel off after painting.
Also after you have done the decals go for another layer of Future, it will cut down the decal step at the edge of each one. Have you used Microset and Microsol to help adhere and conform the decals?
I am sure it won't be long before one of the more experienced lighting modellers will be on to give you more feedback
There is no dark side of the moon really, matter of fact its all dark.
- MEATLOAFr
- Velutinous Vice Admiral
- Posts: 2624
- Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 12:46 pm
- Location: Omaha, NE
Re: 1/1400 AMT Enterprise-D Clear
got a good laugh from that line...ensign wrote: Check Glide characteristics from roof of parking garage
Biggest thing: is to take your time with it, and test, test, test the lights as you go, then test again
If the world ends tomorrow, it's ALL YOUR FAULT!!!
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Custom Decals, and Vinyl Cutting services available
ABLE TO PRINT DECALS IN WHITE
NOW ABLE TO 3D PRINT SMALL SCALE MODELS (ANYCUBIC PHOTON & MONO X) have STL, will print!!
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- Candid Cadet
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2018 7:48 pm
Re: 1/1400 AMT Enterprise-D Clear
Thank you for the suggestions. The problem with liquid mask is that it is very finicky, especially in such tiny areas - and these windows are around .6 mm in width (no typo). Also, on the underside of the model, the windows are not recessed so I would need to do it freehand, which is a process I may not survive.
I'm hoping sanding will diffuse the light adequately. The results online for the clear model look really good, but it's very difficult to see how the paneling details survive after several coats of paint. I'd really like to make sure I'm using a good black paint so that I can get away with as few coats as possible. At the end of the day, I suppose the aztecing will provide enough detail in appearance that it should provide the illusion of texture paneling.
Regarding lighting, I'll be sure to test repeatedly before sealing every up. I'm hoping that warm white LEDs will do the trick. Cool white is austere in my opinion, and the images online all appear to be warm white, unless their white balance is off.
I'm hoping sanding will diffuse the light adequately. The results online for the clear model look really good, but it's very difficult to see how the paneling details survive after several coats of paint. I'd really like to make sure I'm using a good black paint so that I can get away with as few coats as possible. At the end of the day, I suppose the aztecing will provide enough detail in appearance that it should provide the illusion of texture paneling.
Regarding lighting, I'll be sure to test repeatedly before sealing every up. I'm hoping that warm white LEDs will do the trick. Cool white is austere in my opinion, and the images online all appear to be warm white, unless their white balance is off.
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- Lighting Fast Lieutenant JG
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:10 pm
Re: 1/1400 AMT Enterprise-D Clear
I haven't built the clear model, but from what I understand the first coat would be the light disperse color, then the light blocking color, and finally the primer coat .... all of these are painted on the outside of the model, not the inside.
Check out Trekworks on youtube and his builds of the clear "D"
Check out Trekworks on youtube and his builds of the clear "D"
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- Candid Cadet
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2018 7:48 pm
Re: 1/1400 AMT Enterprise-D Clear
Right, I'm definitely not painting anything on the inside of the model, just sanding it (as mentioned in the TrekWorks vids). I think it will just be 'apply, test, repeat' for the black until the light doesn't come through.
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- Can-Do Captain
- Posts: 877
- Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2014 11:08 pm
- Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Re: 1/1400 AMT Enterprise-D Clear
Definitely white primer, then black, then a dark grey primer on the outside. It won’t be too thick, I’ve done it many times.
Use strips of masking tape to cover your windows. See how Don Matthys does it. He has many articles over at Culttvman’s site.
Andy
Use strips of masking tape to cover your windows. See how Don Matthys does it. He has many articles over at Culttvman’s site.
Andy
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- Candid Cadet
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- Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2018 7:48 pm
Re: 1/1400 AMT Enterprise-D Clear
Andy, thank you, I'll apply white primer first. The Culttvman site is an excellent resource. I'll check out the window masking articles. Thank you!
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- Lighting Fast Lieutenant JG
- Posts: 42
- Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2015 5:10 am
Re: 1/1400 AMT Enterprise-D Clear
Sweet! A clear Galaxy build with lights! I have two of these in my "yet to build" stash: one for a galaxy and one for a nebula so Im excited to see others' way of doing things. As others have said take your time and post lots of pictures