Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

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IndianaCook
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Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

Post by IndianaCook » Wed Aug 24, 2016 2:19 pm

Hi everybody!
I'm currently working on restoring my AMT 1:1400 USS Enterprise D and so far its going well. It is the second stage of my many headed beast restoration project: http://allscaletrek.com/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=3826

I have decided to go with Acreation Models Aztecing decals instead of painting the Aztecing on by hand!
Image

My question is what is the best way to apply them? By that I mean, what would I use to prepare the area I am applying the decal too before hand, and what is the best method to seal them afterwards? Because these are larger than your average decals, wallpapers I think they're referred as, I want to make sure I apply them correctly.

Any help and advice is greatly appreciated :)

LLAP \V/
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MEATLOAFr
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Re: Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

Post by MEATLOAFr » Wed Aug 24, 2016 10:36 pm

you could use testors decal coat spray, or what I use is a clear kylon spray from wal-mart (several light coats)
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IndianaCook
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Re: Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

Post by IndianaCook » Thu Aug 25, 2016 6:46 am

Thanks for the tip :) will have to give it a try

LLAP \V/
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Moongrim
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Re: Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

Post by Moongrim » Thu Aug 25, 2016 1:24 pm

I prefer to use Microscale's Decal Set and Decal Sol.
Image

Here's a tutorial that's pretty much what I'd say when using them both:
http://incunabulum.co.uk/blog/2009/09/2 ... -microset/
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IndianaCook
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Re: Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

Post by IndianaCook » Thu Aug 25, 2016 1:48 pm

Hi both, thanks for the reply's :)

Moongrim, forgive me, do both of those perform the same function? If so, which one would you recommend?
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IndianaCook
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Re: Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

Post by IndianaCook » Thu Aug 25, 2016 6:44 pm

Hi again,
On visiting my local model shop I found both of these...

Image

Image

in your guys expert opinion do you think these are suitable?

Thanks in advance :)
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trekriffic
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Re: Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

Post by trekriffic » Thu Aug 25, 2016 10:53 pm

I've used wallpaper decals on quite a few of my builds and the trick is, as with any decals, to start with a glossy finish on your model. You can do this with a clear gloss acrylic spray or a gloss lacquer spray, like Testors Glosscote; however, with lacquers you need to apply the spray in a couple of light coats so as not to risk wrinkling the paint underneath it, especially if you used acrylics or enamels for your final coat. You can also use Future floor finish (aka Pledge with Future Shine, there is another name too which escapes me) which is a clear acrylic floor polish. Apply it with a brush or airbrush but be careful about using too much as it tends to pool along bottom edges and in corners so take a paper towel and touch the tip of it where the Future collects to wick away the excess. Use plenty of warm water (mixed with a drop or two of dishwashing soap) to soak your decals; it helps on especially large ones to cut the decal into sections. Wet your modelm, position the decal as close as possible over the area where it needs to go and gently slide the decal off the backing paper onto the model. If you use your finger wet your finger first or the decal will stick to it. Some wallpaper decals are thinner than others so be careful not to rip them by using too much pressure when applying them. If they do tear you can usually align the torn edges without too much trouble though. Severally torn decals can benefit from a coat of Microscale Liquid Decal Film after they dry. It will hide any torn edges that would appear uneven otherwise. After it's in position, tamp it down with a small cosmetic sponge or a q-tip for smaller decals until you've gotten rid of any water under the decal.

Decal softener and fixers are good for applying once you have the decal floated in position and tamped down. They serve to tighten the decal down onto the surface even more which is especially helpful when applying decals over oddly shaped or irregular hull features. Just be sure to get any excess water out from under the decal first before applying any softeners. Use a pin to poke a hole in the decal film if need be and press out the water if you notice any bubbles. Once you have a relatively flat decal lightly brush with the softener solution and don't touch it! Even if it wrinkles, don't worry, this is a temporary condition and it will evaporate over time and shrink the decal down tight without any help from you. You can go back after an hour or so and, if you still have loose spots or bubbles, poke a hole in the decal to clear out any remaining bubbles; although you shouldn't need to do this very often if you were good about eliminating bubbles before applying your softeners. Take a Q-tip dipped in more of your softener and ever so gently tamp down the decal until it is flat. This is best done quickly with a straight down tamping motion, so as not to risk destroying the decal film by dragging your applicator across it after applying too much additonal softener.

After drying overnight seal the decals with another layer of whatever you used for your clear gloss finish. This will seal them and make the edges of your decals disappear. The decals will look painted on. After the gloss coat dries you can apply a final flat or semi-gloss overspray for the final finish.

Anyway, I hope this was helpful; as I don't know your level of expertise you will have to forgive me if I'm going into more detail than is necessary.
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MEATLOAFr
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Re: Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

Post by MEATLOAFr » Fri Aug 26, 2016 12:04 am

and most importantly... SCAN IT, so you can re-print any "mess ups" decals (if you have any that is)
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IndianaCook
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Re: Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

Post by IndianaCook » Fri Aug 26, 2016 5:52 am

Thats some great tips there, thanks so much.
:)
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Re: Sealing Acreation Aztec Decals

Post by Moongrim » Fri Aug 26, 2016 1:04 pm

Unlike the tutorial, the Decal Set helps make the decal set into place, and I let it dry before proceeding to using the Decal Sol.

The Set adheres the decal to the spot. The Sol allows the decal to mold itself to any bumps and valleys that it's sitting on.
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