Finishing a 3D printed model?

[trek3159]

that little shuttle doesn't look too bad, what scale is it?

[freitec]

Have seen them in action TRULY amazing

[Del]

On Shapeways it's listed as a Fed Type 11 but it looks almost identical to the E-E shuttle. There are a few minor differences however. SInce the E-E shuttle is 16 meters long, and the model is 2 inches long, that puts it at 1/315 scale.

[Shark]

that little shuttle doesn't look too bad, what scale is it?

The model itself isn't bad, but the printing job shapeways did on it sure sucks. If anyone out there wants to order this, I would strongly suggest you contact the maker (mlhaden) and ask if he can make the model available in another material, like frosted detail or something; 'cause "White stong and flexible" ain't cuttin' it.

by Del
On Shapeways it's listed as a Fed Type 11 but it looks almost identical to the E-E shuttle. There are a few minor differences however.

I'm curious, what differences do you see? (Beyond mlhaden's model being simplified)

[Del]

Go to Ex Astris Scientia and scroll half-way down the Shuttlecraft Gallery Page where you should see Star Trek Fact Files images of all the different angles of the shuttle. If you compare those images with the rendering on the Shapeways site, you should note some very minor differences like the size of the forward phaser strip, the triangular shapes at each side below the windshield, and some details along the central spine of the craft. As I stated, minor differences. It looks pretty good otherwise.

[Shark]

I would certainly call those minor. That and the fact files have not been known for thier accuracy.

[martok2112]

I would love to be able to afford a 3D printer myself, and see how my CG models turn out in printed form.
Granted, I know I could get the 3D printout through a third party for far cheaper, but I just always thought it'd be cool to make my own practical models on demand.

[el gato]

Shark, I ordered a TOS version of the Reliant in WSF. I found it too rough to sculpt and too hard to sand. The curved areas weren't really curved but "stair stepped" or terraced. After watching several sanding sticks die a horrible, dishonorable death, I got the idea to use Bondo to coat the curved areas and sand those down. It worked like a charm because the Bondo filled in both the curved areas and the porous parts. And as you may know Bondo is easy to work with. Now my little Reliant looks pretty good.

[el gato]

Here are samples: As it originally looked. You can see the stair steps on the middle ring:



In contrast to the sharp panel lines of the dorsal saucer, the ventral saucer had these soft lines that looked like old, old school resin kits:



These pics show this kit in the "ugly" phase when I used Bondo, primer and Aves to remove the lines. The Bondo really highlighted the stair steps and the "wood grain" of the printing, especially on the roll bar and deflector housing. In retrospect I should have used Bondo exclusively:





Here is the end result, with primer and paint. You'll notice I left the panel lines around the lower sensor dome. That was more of a creative choice than anything else:

[Moongrim]

I got to enjoy a White strong and flexible, on some of the parts I had printed out for some 1/1000 kits.

I found that what El Gato suggests, along with some thin plastic applied (covering the surface) is what seems to work best.

As to drilling (if you need to), you're gonna end up with a WSF covered drill bit that takes forever to clean off.