What putty?

[NCC1966]

I couldn't find this Ave stuff anywhere online that ship to my country. My obvious option would be eBay but I didn't find it there also. I got some tips and good advice about a "Perfect Plastic Putty" in a couple other forums so I decided to give it a try and ordered a squirt bottle. Let's see when it comes.

[trekriffic]

It is absorbed and gives structure to he cement. It is not real strong but will do things like restore broken areas, fill cavities, or build something up. It can be worked like normal plastic.

A technique for larger areas is cardboard and CA. Make your part from coarse cardboard like shirt backings or internal packing and soak it in CA. You get a fibrous plastic. This was used in the auto industry for rapid prototyping before 3D printing. This Guy

Cool! I love these old school techniques!

NCC, I concur with El Gato. Nothing beats AVES Apoxy Sculpt for a good strong seam joint if you can get it. Won't shrink. Workable for up to a half hour. Dries hard yet is still sandable and carveable. Can be smoothed with a moistened q-tip or use your finger to drag out and feather the edge thus eliminating a lot of unnecessary sanding.

[trekriffic]

I couldn't find this Ave stuff anywhere online that ship to my country. My obvious option would be eBay but I didn't find it there also. I got some tips and good advice about a "Perfect Plastic Putty" in a couple other forums so I decided to give it a try and ordered a squirt bottle. Let's see when it comes.

Perfect Plastic Putty doesn't copme ina squirt bottle, at least not the ones I'm familiar with.

PPP, as it is often referred to by modeling experts , is a water based paste that goes on creamy and can be smoothed into your seam joint with water and a q-tip or a sponge applicator (or your finger). Dries very hard in 10-15 minutes so start sanding after about 5. Great as a filler putty where no flexing of the parts will occur. Has no strength as it is NOT an epoxy putty, strictly for filling in surface imperfections and seams.

I used it quite liberally to fill the grid lines on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise and it was a slog to sand it off after a few hours drying time. I ended up using 150 grit sandpaper to knock it down to the level of the plastic before moving on to progressively finer grades of sanding films.

[NCC1966]

It looks a squirt bottle for me. Wrong word perhaps?

[el gato]

I couldn't find this Ave stuff anywhere online that ship to my country. My obvious option would be eBay but I didn't find it there also. I got some tips and good advice about a "Perfect Plastic Putty" in a couple other forums so I decided to give it a try and ordered a squirt bottle. Let's see when it comes.

Perfect Plastic Putty doesn't copme ina squirt bottle, at least not the ones I'm familiar with.

PPP, as it is often referred to by modeling experts , is a water based paste that goes on creamy and can be smoothed into your seam joint with water and a q-tip or a sponge applicator (or your finger). Dries very hard in 10-15 minutes so start sanding after about 5. Great as a filler putty where no flexing of the parts will occur. Has no strength as it is NOT an epoxy putty, strictly for filling in surface imperfections and seams.

I used it quite liberally to fill the grid lines on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise and it was a slog to sand it off after a few hours drying time. I ended up using 150 grit sandpaper to knock it down to the level of the plastic before moving on to progressively finer grades of sanding films.

I'm going to have to look into this as well. Bondo is my material of choice for surface scratches and minor seam and surface repairs. The problem I've found with it at times is that it cracks.

[Tesral]

I love, breathe and live for Aves Epoxy Sculpt, though I don't know how easily obtainable it will be in Brazil or whether it's cost effective to ship it to you.

Another method I have found for small pits like bubbles in resin is CA and baking soda. Put in the gap filling CA and sprinkle on the banking soda. I sets at once if not sooner. The bevel around the deflector on my USS Kongo was done entirely with this method.

I'm going to have to try this. And I hope you don't mind if I steal your deflector idea on a future build.

I would be honored. I mounted the smaller defector dish flush with the rings, spike removed. I left the outer most ring and filled the rest up to the dish.

The one construction pic I have.

[Julien]

Totally hate the tamya putty... Like you I always get pitting in it...

I mainly use the Humbrol, the vallejo or Mr Dissolved putty depending on the situation.

For bigger gaps, I use Ave Apoxie sculpt, but that stuff dries really hard to it's impossible to sand, so you need to "sculpt" it before it cures...