3. Yes, this is missing from the kit, that's why I'm just about to release replacement parts.
[/quote]
Hey, nice! These'd solve another problem with the kit part -- the absence of undercuts beneath the surround. Timing?
*another* another lighted Reliant
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- Lighting Fast Lieutenant JG
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2015 8:58 pm
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- Lighting Fast Lieutenant JG
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Installing the mystery holes atop the B deck
OK, here goes with the mystery holes. First, sketch in the radial lines to locate the windows axially, and use a circular scribe to get the correct distance from the bridge. I've already put the centerline hole in place. It's a a 5/16th" hole sleeved with plastic tube that I've faired into place. Inside diameter is 1/16th".
Next, drill 1/16" holes. Then sleeve with aluminum tubing. The sleeves provide perfectly uniform holes, plus if I'm off line then I can overbore the hole and move the tube around a bit.
Bondo fills any gaps around the sleeves, and erases the circular scribe marks.
Sand the bondo, scribe the radial lines, and that's that.
Next, I need to add the little squares on either side of the radial lines, then it's on to the b deck windows, and officer's lounge window photoetch.
Next, drill 1/16" holes. Then sleeve with aluminum tubing. The sleeves provide perfectly uniform holes, plus if I'm off line then I can overbore the hole and move the tube around a bit.
Bondo fills any gaps around the sleeves, and erases the circular scribe marks.
Sand the bondo, scribe the radial lines, and that's that.
Next, I need to add the little squares on either side of the radial lines, then it's on to the b deck windows, and officer's lounge window photoetch.
- MSgtUSAFRet
- Can-Do Captain
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Re: *another* another lighted Reliant
Nice solution there, toejrb!
This is looking very good!
Steady as she goes!
Steve
This is looking very good!
Steady as she goes!
Steve
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- Can-Do Captain
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Re: Reliant questions for the cognoscenti
They are ready to cast now. If I had the money for some rubber, I'd have the first set molded tomorrowtoejrb wrote:
Hey, nice! These'd solve another problem with the kit part -- the absence of undercuts beneath the surround. Timing?
I won't have the cash for at least another two weeks, but I expect that's when I'll start molding them
Andy
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- Lighting Fast Lieutenant JG
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A Reliant by any other name . . .
A couple years ago the LHS was clearing out old decals. Among the clearance offerings were these decals for the 1/537 Constitution.
The sheet is reminiscent of the one that came with mid-seventies editions of the TOS Connies. But in the refit scheme.
Significantly for my purposes, in amongst the usual Constitution-class names/registries (i.e., Hood, Farragut, etc.) were a couple of oddballs.
Memory Beta says these were https://memory-beta.wikia.com/wiki/USS_E ... non-cannon Constitution ships, emphasis on "non-cannon." Since the Miranda-class is generally described as a contemporary of the Constitution, I feel reasonably within my rights to appropriate a 1720s registry no. and dub *my* Miranda the El Dorado or the Krieger. I lean towards El Dorado. Gives me an excuse to do some gold trim in with the usual shades of blue!
The sheet is reminiscent of the one that came with mid-seventies editions of the TOS Connies. But in the refit scheme.
Significantly for my purposes, in amongst the usual Constitution-class names/registries (i.e., Hood, Farragut, etc.) were a couple of oddballs.
Memory Beta says these were https://memory-beta.wikia.com/wiki/USS_E ... non-cannon Constitution ships, emphasis on "non-cannon." Since the Miranda-class is generally described as a contemporary of the Constitution, I feel reasonably within my rights to appropriate a 1720s registry no. and dub *my* Miranda the El Dorado or the Krieger. I lean towards El Dorado. Gives me an excuse to do some gold trim in with the usual shades of blue!
- Moongrim
- Fatidical Fleet Admiral
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- Location: West of Eugene Oregon.
Re: *another* another lighted Reliant
Push comes to shove.
It's YOUR Universe of Star Trek. You can name your ship anyway you want to.
Whether it be a 'common' canon name, or your own personalized Mary Sue.
It's YOUR Universe of Star Trek. You can name your ship anyway you want to.
Whether it be a 'common' canon name, or your own personalized Mary Sue.
There are Times, Sir, when men of good Conscience cannot blindly follow orders. You acknowledge their sentience, but ignore their personal liberties and freedoms. Order a man to hand over his child to the state? Not while I"m captain.
- J.L.Picard.
- J.L.Picard.
- MEATLOAFr
- Velutinous Vice Admiral
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Re: A Reliant by any other name . . .
why does the last 2 el dorado & kreiger (archer FTW IMHO) have the red outlines and not the others? weirdtoejrb wrote:
If the world ends tomorrow, it's ALL YOUR FAULT!!!
Custom Decals, and Vinyl Cutting services available
ABLE TO PRINT DECALS IN WHITE
NOW ABLE TO 3D PRINT SMALL SCALE MODELS (ANYCUBIC PHOTON & MONO X) have STL, will print!!
Custom Decals, and Vinyl Cutting services available
ABLE TO PRINT DECALS IN WHITE
NOW ABLE TO 3D PRINT SMALL SCALE MODELS (ANYCUBIC PHOTON & MONO X) have STL, will print!!
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- Lighting Fast Lieutenant JG
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- Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Re: A Reliant by any other name . . .
MEATLOAFr wrote:why does the last 2 el dorado & kreiger (archer FTW IMHO) have the red outlines and not the others? weird
Beats me!
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- Lighting Fast Lieutenant JG
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- Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Rollbar tweaks
I took a break from the bridge and b/c decks to futz with the roll bar. As kitted, the roll bar is too thin, lacks the cut-outs on the leading and trailing edges, and has smooth areas that should be ridged.
Step 1 is to add some styrene strips just inside the leading and trailing edges. This is win-win-win. It makes the bar thicker, provides a landing for the ribbed inserts, and, since set back from the leading edge, can also leave an opening for the cut-outs. It also creates space to run wiring and fiber optics for the little red lights that are all over the thing.
Step 2 is to drop in the ribbed bits.
Next I'll put some alu tube into the phaser things so the various roll bar and nacelle struts have something to grab onto. I'll also neaten up the edges of the troughs for the ribbed inserts. And I'll start wiring up the red lights. Thinking a single red LED in the torpedo pod, with fiber optics leading to the various roll bar running lights.
Step 1 is to add some styrene strips just inside the leading and trailing edges. This is win-win-win. It makes the bar thicker, provides a landing for the ribbed inserts, and, since set back from the leading edge, can also leave an opening for the cut-outs. It also creates space to run wiring and fiber optics for the little red lights that are all over the thing.
Step 2 is to drop in the ribbed bits.
Next I'll put some alu tube into the phaser things so the various roll bar and nacelle struts have something to grab onto. I'll also neaten up the edges of the troughs for the ribbed inserts. And I'll start wiring up the red lights. Thinking a single red LED in the torpedo pod, with fiber optics leading to the various roll bar running lights.
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- Lighting Fast Lieutenant JG
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2015 8:58 pm
re-worked Reliant bridge
I'm still deciding what to do about the bridge. I chopped up the kit part, and put on sheet styrene to shrink down the dome, to widen the pronounced "shelf" that's level with the back of the bridge, and to sharpen up the detail aft of the dome. The results are mixed. I may try another round of styrene discs, or just go with the DLM Constitution Refit bridge so I can get on with the numerous other things that need doing. Either way it's been a good learning experience.