1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

WiP, finished models and general 1/1400 chit chat.
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trekriffic
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Re: 1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

Postby trekriffic » Wed Jan 18, 2017 6:09 pm

The kit plastic looks white or is it a light gray? I was thinking if the plastic was white you might have been able to just leave the windows as is and just mask them for when you apply your primer and finishing coats. Then if you place a couple of high powered LEDs behind them the light will shine right thru the kit plastic illuminating your windows. Sure the windows would be opaque white but do you really need to see thru them into the inside of the model? It also eliminates hot spots (lens flares) when you take photos which is a bugaboo of mine. It just spoils the illusion when a cabin window is shining bright as the sun on a spaceship.
"You broke your little ships."

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Re: 1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

Postby MSgtUSAFRet » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:47 pm

Good Monday Morning, Questarians!

Steve, that sounds like a good plan - using the provided CM instead of all the work to dupe one. Still, I'm gonna try one more approach and then go with that if it doesn't work! And I agree with your bugaboos!

Do you remember the quote most attribute to Thomas A. Edison? "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Yeah, it's kinda like that! ::)

I was very busy this weekend with doing things, but unfortunately I made very little forward progress on the model.

I cast the CM in clear. The material in the mixing cup I used for the resin had set up clear and hard after about 36 hours. Feeling confident that the CM would be in similar condition, I tweaked it from the mold only to find it still tacky and pliable. I checked it after 5 days and, while firm, it is not set. Knowing that the stuff in the cup was set (I almost cut myself on the edges) I think a couple of factors played into the resin not setting as quick as the cup 1) the mold was cold when I poured it and 2) the mold release agent MAY have been a factor.

ImageFirst mold and pour attempt by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

So thinking I could make a better stone mold, I invested the CM in plaster and made a two part mold. My own lack of recent experience played against me I'm afraid as the plaster started to set before I could get it to flow into the CM details; something I didn't realize until I had made a casting of clear nail acylic. Plus the nail acrylic was very porous and the surface was rough.

ImageSeconed Dupe attempt - stone by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

ImageStone mold result by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I am thinking of trying again with the Oomoo resin, which is white rather than clear, and see if it will turn out faster and be a better fix. The white may help diffuse the light and look better than clear anyway. Plan F at this point is to use the original CM and follow that light blocking procedure detailed above as trekriffic suggests above.

I did do some light blocking on the ventral primary hull and the wings! At least this was forward progress!

ImageBrake pads and light blocking by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

Kinda looks like brake pads! :D

ImageLight blocking Wings and Hull by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I ordered some 1.0mm and 0.75mm fiber optic from the Fiber Optic Store and, while waiting for that to arrive, I decided to try and work on lighting the Engine Pods. Once again, I found out that this model has very little room for lights, resistor or wire! :-[

As you can see, I used 30AWG magnet wire across the Ventral primary hull. I am hoping that it will be able to handle carrying all the power I need for the wings without heat.

ImageFirst use of 30AWG wire by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

In trying to fit the parts together to evaluate the space, I decided to ream out the supports for the wings. The model depends on friction between the, I don't know the exact term to call them, male and female parts on the wings and body. I decided to ream out the female receivers to allow me to quickly assemble and disassemble the parts as needed. Using a power drill and a bit slightly larger than the receiver, I set out to reduce the friction. But I did a newb mistake and ended up putting a hole in the hull! CURSES!

Image20170122_174850 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

A bit of putty and sanding will fix it but I hate it when I create more work than I save!

So leaving this, I made the lighting for the Port engine pod. After several attempts, I settled on this arrangement of the lights. Not my best work. Still working through if there is a better way to do things. Standby.

ImageAft Engine First Light by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

Another issue reared it's ugly head, again! When I added the resistor in the wing, thinking there would be space for it, there wasn't space. SOOOOOOoooooo, I will have to put the resistor in the pod with the lights. Woohoo! Still, I had to take a picture of the lighted pod! It is gonna look SOOOOO COOOL!

ImageAft Engine Lights Dark by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I figured I had discovered enough ways something didn't work and called it quits for the weekend.

Thanks for reading; if you made it this far! Writing this log helps me think through obstacles so thanks for your indulgence! ANY suggestions, no matter how small, would be appreciated and comments, inputs and constructive criticisms are always welcome!

Have a great Monday!

Steve
Last edited by MSgtUSAFRet on Mon Jul 10, 2017 12:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

Postby trekriffic » Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:01 pm

One suggestion, remove those big hankin' sockets and their mating pins from inside your engine compartments. They will block the light from your blue LEDs and cast shadows against your clear grills. You should be able to get a good enough glue joint just spreading tube glue around the edge and in those smaller pin and sockets near the edges.

Alternatively you could find some larger diameter clear rod and tubing that fit together and replace the kit pins and sockets with clear ones for added support but that seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me.
"You broke your little ships."

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Re: 1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

Postby MSgtUSAFRet » Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:16 pm

trekriffic wrote:One suggestion, remove those big hankin' sockets and their mating pins from inside your engine compartments. They will block the light from your blue LEDs and cast shadows against your clear grills. You should be able to get a good enough glue joint just spreading tube glue around the edge and in those smaller pin and sockets near the edges.

Alternatively you could find some larger diameter clear rod and tubing that fit together and replace the kit pins and sockets with clear ones for added support but that seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me.


Awesome!! Nice suggestion! Will do!

Thanks!

Steve

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Re: 1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

Postby MSgtUSAFRet » Thu Jan 26, 2017 9:02 pm

Small update today. I decided to go back and use 30AWG magnet wire on the Protector as the 24AWG didn't allow the wing to close; not matter how I tried to run the wire. I ended up grinding away some of the sockets and mating pins on the wings in order to get them to close. Also, I had to modify the 3mm LEDs so they were smaller and could better fit in the limited available space.

Image20170124_183548 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

Image20170124_202053 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

Once I had gotten the wiring and lighting design for the Starboard Wing worked out, the Port wing install went much faster. But, as a result of grinding away so much, I could permanently install the lights as I now have to go back and light block again. I couldn't resist taking another pic of the wings in a small light test.

Image20170124_205959 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

OH! Today's modeling tip: If you are going to be soldering your LEDs in series, remember Kids, ALWAYS make sure you have a resister in the circuit before you apply power! I didn't and later realized I hadn't put one in. Thankfully and rather mysteriously, neither of the LEDs blew. Still, it is something to think about.

(I know some of you are saying "Now I know!" and are hearing Duke from G.I. Joe say "And knowing is half the battle!") ;D

Never Give Up!

Steve
Last edited by MSgtUSAFRet on Tue Jul 25, 2017 4:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

Postby mophius » Thu Jan 26, 2017 9:24 pm

Nice work.
I am taking tips for when I pluck up the courage to do a lit model.
There is no dark side of the moon really, matter of fact its all dark.

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Re: 1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

Postby Moongrim » Fri Jan 27, 2017 8:26 pm

Good thing you caught the 'no-resistor- thingy before it was too late/like after you sealed the model up.
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Re: 1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

Postby MSgtUSAFRet » Mon Jan 30, 2017 4:04 pm

Good Monday to ya, Questerians!

I hope you all had a great weekend! It was sunny and cool in Houston this weekend! Gorgeous!

mophius wrote:Nice work.
I am taking tips for when I pluck up the courage to do a lit model.


Thanks and take away anything you feel will help! :)

Moongrim wrote:Good thing you caught the 'no-resistor- thingy before it was too late/like after you sealed the model up.


I know, right?! :lol:

So, while I didn’t get a lot assembled, I did get a lot of Alternative Parts made for the Protector! For the CM, persistence paid off! (I know you thinking the slogan, so I won’t say it either!) I tried several different (four to be exact) method of duplicating the CM. The first was a poured rubber mold and epoxy resin. It came out crystal clear, but had voids in critical places and the resin, contaminated by, I think, the mold release agent made the product too flexible for use.

The second was made using a stone mold and clear nail acrylic. Both set before I expected and caused a very rough, poorly detailed CM. The third was made using mold putty and a mixture of clear nail acrylic. This came out better but was full of voids and unusable without significant modification.

The success came from using the same putty mold and the sprinkle method. I would sprinkle a small portion of the acrylic in the mold and then wet it with the monomer and then repeat the process until the mold was completely covered and thick enough.

Here is a picture of the mold.

Image

And final the successful casting of the CM.

Image

Here is a shot of the final casting, after finishing, with the original part.

Image

I then fitted it to the ship using a dental lab technique where I used pencil lead on the model and trying to seat the CM on the ship, I would grind the “pressure points”, or places where the pencil lead had left marks on the CM, until the CM was seated on the ship’s hull.

Image

For grins and giggles, I taped the CM to the ship and hooked up the internal lights to a 9V test battery and saw it light up wonderfully!

Image

I also did some gross finishing on the chillers (the little Red thingies on the front of the wings). Here they are with the original parts.

Image

A quick dry fitting of the clear parts show they should work out well

Image

Image

I still need to do a bit of fine finishing on them and fit them to the wings, but, for the most part, I am quite pleased with the turnout!

In other news, the fiber I ordered has arrived so I will be attempting to install the running and formation lights soon. Before that, I will have to do some planning about where I am going to place the blinker board Cameron (Tankton) so graciously built for me. Right now, I am thinking the board will have to go in the base while the lights will go in the ventral primary hull with the FO running to the various points of the ship. Any tips and suggestions are welcome!

That all for this post! It was a fairly productive weekend! Hope your’s was too!

Till then,

Fleegman: Yeah, their cute now, but, in a second, they're gonna get mean, and they're gonna get ugly somehow, and there's gonna be a million more of them. (Pulls Gwen back from interacting with the Aliens and angerly hisses) Did you guys ever WATCH the show?!

Never Give Up! (There, I said it!)

Steve

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Re: 1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

Postby MSgtUSAFRet » Wed Mar 08, 2017 9:04 pm

Good Day Fellow Questarians!

Sorry to take so long between progress posts! This model really goes together quickly and, IMHO, if I don't have all the bits and bobs done ahead of time, it may spell disaster in forgetting about a light, or a board or a fiber. Whew! So I have been busy building, but most of it has been building the lights and making channels in the interior plastic through which to run the magnet wires.

I will have some down time due to surgery this week and should be able, during recovery period I hope, to make the tutorial on the acrylic sprinkle technique! Stay tuned!

I waited to post something until I had something to post. (Okay, it sounded better in my head than it did on paper!) I know that fiber optic lighting is old hat to most of the builders here, but below is a picture of my first fiber optic light! TA DA!

Image

This one was just a test, but the concept was tested and proven so... I have that going for me; which is nice.

I tested the Bussard Collector lights and saw that, even through the clear blue parts, I saw the LEDs. I decided I would rather have that diffused, so I cut some 0.010mm sheet polystyrene to place inside the Bussard Collectors between the lights and the clear parts. I haven't glued them in yet as I am still trying to decide the color of grey I will be using.

Image

Since I was at it, I cut a few pieces for the Primary Hull windows as well. Since this technique worked so well on my TOS Romulan BoP, I used it here, too. It is kinda hard to tell, but the sheet styrene is beneath the quick clamps and batteries. I used the batteries to help conform the sheet styene to the hull shape until the glue dried.

Image

Here is one of my clear castings with lightblocking in place. The concept for this worked very well, too. I will have to go back and re-mask the lights and repaint them the proper color. I am going to shape an LED to fit up next to the clear part and tack it in place. I am hoping that once it is all placed, I can use Tulip paint to cover the LED and the clear part as a light block without blocking the light to the LED. Sorry for the fuzzies; it was low light and the camera would not focus on the lights, just my thumb.

Image

Since I decided to permanently attach the CM to the Primary Hull, I drilled some holes in the dorsal primary hull part (is sits directly beneath the CM on the model). Then I added a square of 0.010mm styrene over the two holes for light diffusion. I then CA'd them in place. Here is the final product.

Image

I then hot glued the primary hull lighting in place; well, only part of it. The two platforms that span the seams between the STBD and Port halves will have to wait to be attached. Before I attach them, I will have to bend the single fiber optic strand from the rear of the Primary Hull to the large LED near the nose of the ship. But I put it in place to get an idea of where and if all the wires would be arranged.

Image

So, that's it so far and that is all for now!

Thanks for reading! As always, any tips, comments or suggestions for improvement will be greatly appreciated!

*NSEA Salute*

Steve
Last edited by MSgtUSAFRet on Wed Mar 08, 2017 9:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 1/1400 Galaxy Quest N.S.E.A. Protector Spaceship - Pegasus Hobby

Postby MSgtUSAFRet » Wed Mar 08, 2017 9:05 pm

Greetings, Fellow Questarians!

Apologies, again, for taking so long between posts! Between surgery and work, building had to take a back seat for a bit. I have still been trolling the website and seeing the excellent progress you all have been making on your builds, though.

I jumped back on the bench for a bit yesterday and it looks like I am about to clear a milestone. I changed the Fiber optic LED source from a 5mm to a 3mm and was able to form a FO stand using my soldering iron. I needed to make a near 90 degree angle and the heat from the soldering iron helped form it without breaking or fracturing the strand. I then put some tulip paint on it to help seal it in place.

Image20170305_175334 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I know this seems like a dupe picture, but, for this one, I soldered all the positive leads together and the negative leads together to allow a single pair of wires for the power to exit the primary hull. The other pair is also connected but it will be for the power to the wings. I also have magnet wire coming out of the hull as it will be going directly to the flasher board I will put in the base.

Image20170305_191649 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

And here is another light test.

Image20170305_191418 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

Once the tulip paint fully sets, I will trim it down, add some to the other side and button up the primary hull. Seam work to follow.

I hope to post some more progress posts now that I am not loopy from the meds! Also, I wanted to post something to let you all know I am still alive!

As always, thanks for looking! Any comments or suggestions from improvement are always welcome!

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is a...
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Steve
Last edited by MSgtUSAFRet on Tue Jul 25, 2017 4:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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