Using Ink Pen for Windows?

[SKO]

I usually don't bother doing the windows on my 1/1400 scale. Frankly w the aztec decals on the E and the multi color scheme on the C I don't really think they need that added detail to look complete. I've decided however you just can't break up all of the monotony of the giant D without doing those windows. I know some people use ink pens for that. Any tips? What pen to use? Common issues?

[MEATLOAFr]

extra fine tip - test out on a scrap part first, watch ink flow while using

[Vahmp]

I use "Pilot, projector permanent markers" and "Edding 404, permanent markers".
Both tipes with .75mm and 1.0mm tip sizes.
My main colors are Black, Red, Blue, Green, and when I can find, Yellow.

They both work fine for 1:2500 scale, so I'm sure they'll work very well for 1:1400 scale.

[SKO]

I use "Pilot, projector permanent markers" and "Edding 404, permanent markers".
Both tipes with .75mm and 1.0mm tip sizes.
My main colors are Black, Red, Blue, Green, and when I can find, Yellow.

They both work fine for 1:2500 scale, so I'm sure they'll work very well for 1:1400 scale.

Awesome, thank you.

[Vahmp]

Don't mention it.

[NCC1966]

I know that the OP asked specifically about the use of pen, but here it goes an alternative. Lately I have made a 1/2500 Enterprise "E" so if it worked well for such a small scale it probably will work also to 1/1400. It's really simple and the trick consists on use the low relief of the model to work for you.

I should mention that I used some kind of enamel or lacquer from a rattle can for base color. The point is that the base color MUST be a paint that won't be removed when rubbed with water. So here we go. I just painted uncarefully over the windows with black acrylic paint using a brush. Actually I didn't paint the windows one by one, instead I painted a large strip covering the whole crap (windows and all the hull around them). Then I left it drying overnight. On the morning after I started rubbing the whole area furiously with a cotton swab damped with water. Of course I used several cotton swabs to get the whole job done. Anyway, as I was rubbing the area the top paint was being removed but remained inside the windows since they are in low relief. I found this an easy and really quick way of paint several windows at the same time.



Here it is the link for the result:
https://www.allscaletrek.com/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=4351

PS: Of course with this technique the windows will be as sharp as the quality of the tool used to stamp your kit!

[trekriffic]

I know that the OP asked specifically about the use of pen, but here it goes an alternative. Lately I have made a 1/2500 Enterprise "E" so if it worked well for such a small scale it probably will work also to 1/1400. It's really simple and the trick consists on use the low relief of the model to work for you.

I should mention that I used some kind of enamel or lacquer from a rattle can for base color. The point is that the base color MUST be a paint that won't be removed when rubbed with water. So here we go. I just painted uncarefully over the windows with black acrylic paint using a brush. Actually I didn't paint the windows one by one, instead I painted a large strip covering the whole crap (windows and all the hull around them). Then I left it drying overnight. On the morning after I started rubbing the whole area furiously with a cotton swab damped with water. Of course I used several cotton swabs to get the whole job done. Anyway, as I was rubbing the area the top paint was being removed but remained inside the windows since they are in low relief. I found this an easy and really quick way of paint several windows at the same time.



Here it is the link for the result:
https://www.allscaletrek.com/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=4351

PS: Of course with this technique the windows will be as sharp as the quality of the tool used to stamp your kit!

That's a good tip. I've done something similar but usually I wipe the excess away after 5 minutes rather than letting it dry overnight. Less hard rubbing that way.
For models like the D with those oblong windows I find just using some thinned black or white enamel works fine. If you get it the right consistency, and use a fine tipped round brush, you can just touch the tip in the recess and it will just flow right up to the edges. Very quick and neat.

[NCC1966]

That's a good tip. I've done something similar but usually I wipe the excess away after 5 minutes rather than letting it dry overnight. Less hard rubbing that way.

Initially I tried to do this after 10-15 minutes because I was in a rush to see the result but then it started to remove part of the low relief together as I rubbed. Leaving it cure more time gave to me more control in the top removal. I think that this behavior may change depending on the paint make (I used a domestic brand for canvas). If it was Tamiya acrylics probably would be necessary to use a torch and a chisel.

[Tesral]

Tamiya acrylics probably would be necessary to use a torch and a chisel.

Tell me about it. I would use a thinned "craft paint" if using that method. They come off easily as it is when you don't want them to..

[SKO]

Thanks for all of the feedback. I have been using a very fine waterproof sharpie and my 1701-D looks much better than the boring unbroken grey it was before. Will post pics later.