*another* another lighted Reliant

For all other scales including 1/72, 1/537, 1/650 and Studio.
andyh
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Re: re-worked Reliant bridge

Post by andyh »

toejrb wrote:I'm still deciding what to do about the bridge. I chopped up the kit part, and put on sheet styrene to shrink down the dome, to widen the pronounced "shelf" that's level with the back of the bridge, and to sharpen up the detail aft of the dome. The results are mixed. I may try another round of styrene discs, or just go with the DLM Constitution Refit bridge so I can get on with the numerous other things that need doing. Either way it's been a good learning experience.
You do know that DLM has a Reliant Bridge as well as the Refit Bridge?
toejrb
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Re: re-worked Reliant bridge

Post by toejrb »

andyh wrote:You do know that DLM has a Reliant Bridge as well as the Refit Bridge?
Yup, I do, thanks. Did you do the master for it? Thinking I may yet go that way (in clear, natch), since I'm also thinking about getting an officer's lounge from Don. Right now, there's a big gaping hole behind the photoetch windows at the back of the b/c deck section. Plus I want to keep Don in business for my future builds, so there's that too!

All that said, a Connie bridge can look just fine on a Miranda. Clock this this DeBoer hull buildup:
DeBoer hull bridge
DeBoer hull bridge
More pictures here: https://www.thelightworks.com/models/model_reliant.htm

I'm pretty sure that model has a Constitution's bridge. Note the raised panels on the bridge side, and the grilles on the sloping dorsal bits to either side of the bridge dome, and the small insets on either side of the horizonal window vent things just above the B deck. All Connie bridge features not found on the Miranda studio model. Still looks amazing.
andyh
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Re: *another* another lighted Reliant

Post by andyh »

Yes, I mastered he Reliant Bridge for Don. It is also ever so much shorter from front to back than the Connie bridge, but yes, you are correct, the Refit bridge does look just fine on the Reliant B/C deck :)

This is the B/C deck and Bridge I molded for myself before I sent the masters all off to Don.

Image

Image

Andy
toejrb
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Reliant edge window alignment?

Post by toejrb »

One of the things the picture of the DeBoer build up (above) brings home is that the windows on the side of the reliant have to be very closely aligned block-to-block. Also, the windows on the flat bits fore and aft of the nacelle pylons have to align with each other, and with the saucer windows. Otherwise they won't fit neatly with the sensor band decals. An error of even a fraction of a mm will be *very* noticeable.

I have the Paragrafix templates, so that's a start. But even small variances in how I position those will, as noted above, be painfully obvious. Was thinking maybe I'd get a sacrificial set of sensor band decals that I could put on the hull as a guide. Seems like a pricey solution, though. Maybe use the DLM inserts from the 1/537 refit for the saucer bits? Anyone have any other bright ideas for getting everything to line up? Is there maybe already a thread on this to which someone could point me?
toejrb
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Re: *another* another lighted Reliant

Post by toejrb »

andyh wrote:Yes, I mastered he Reliant Bridge for Don. It is also ever so much shorter from front to back than the Connie bridge, but yes, you are correct, the Refit bridge does look just fine on the Reliant B/C deck :)
Andy
Tempting. For the final model I'll either use the Connie DLM part, or buy the DLM (your) Miranda part.

Notwithstanding, I've continued futzing with the kit bridge; new pics below. Sanding stuff so it stays perfectly round is an art I haven't mastered. And that cut line midway up the dome is giving me fits. This is pretty much just practice now, tho; I dont' see any way this comes out better than the DLM option.

more reliant bridge
more reliant bridge
image.jpeg (115.58 KiB) Viewed 3158 times
reliant bridge off b/c deck
reliant bridge off b/c deck
image_1.jpeg (116.18 KiB) Viewed 3158 times
is this my good side?
is this my good side?
image_2.jpeg (117.01 KiB) Viewed 3158 times
toejrb
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Roll bar uppers

Post by toejrb »

Did some work on the roll bar uppers today. Boxed the cut-outs for the ribbed material in, using strip styrene. Man is that stuff great!
port and starboard roll bar uppers
port and starboard roll bar uppers
image.jpeg (112.76 KiB) Viewed 3139 times
before priming, showing bondo and styrene strip
before priming, showing bondo and styrene strip
image_2.jpeg (91.66 KiB) Viewed 3139 times
after primer and sanding
after primer and sanding
image_1.jpeg (100.85 KiB) Viewed 3139 times
closeup of primed side
closeup of primed side
image_3.jpeg (100.93 KiB) Viewed 3139 times
andyh
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Re: *another* another lighted Reliant

Post by andyh »

Excellent. I'm going to have to do the same eventually, so it's interesting to see how you have gone about it ;)

Andy
toejrb
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Re: Roll bar uppers

Post by toejrb »

toejrb wrote:Did some work on the roll bar uppers today. Boxed the cut-outs for the ribbed material in, using strip styrene. Man is that stuff great!
I'd say these are pretty much baked for now. Still need color, decals, and lighting, of course!
roll bar w/white finish coat
roll bar w/white finish coat
image.jpeg (103.84 KiB) Viewed 3111 times
another of the roll bar uppers
another of the roll bar uppers
image_2.jpeg (106.98 KiB) Viewed 3111 times
One thing to watch out for is that even .010" strip can close off the connection between the two polyhedrons. Were I to do it again, I'd open the cut-outs an extra .020" in back. Live and learn.
toejrb
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Reliant lighting test

Post by toejrb »

Tried out the Starling board today. Works perfectly!
reliant lighting 1
reliant lighting 1
For the flashers, I'll pair two LEDs with one resistor in series, then have lots of pairs runing in parallel with each other, per the Starling instructions. For the strobe, I'll have a single LED and associated resistor, and run fiber optics off to the strobe locations.
reliant lighting 2
reliant lighting 2

Now to determine what lights go where . . .
    1. Seems like the saucer section is easy -- red flashers on port, top and bottom. Green flashers on starboard, top and bottom. White flasher at the bow, top only.
    2. Strobes go on the top back of the bridge, and on the top stern of each nacelle.
    3. After that it gets more complicated. From a recent TWOK viewing it looks like the red lights on the top and bottom stern section flash. The red and white lights on the fantail around the hanger bay doors are static. As are the red lights sprinkled around the roll bar.
toejrb
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b/c deck windows

Post by toejrb »

Put some pilot holes in place for the b/c deck windows. Hurray for circular windows! I'm procrastinating on the balance of the windows because I can't get the lozenge-shaped ones to look right.
empty lounge
empty lounge
image.jpeg (90.5 KiB) Viewed 3081 times
While I was on the b/c deck, I finished cleaning out the kit plastic behind the etch officer's lounge window. Gotta do something with the space now. Leaning towards making the lounge double as a garden, since the Mirandas don't seem to have a dedicated arboretum.
image_1.jpeg
image_1.jpeg (86.66 KiB) Viewed 3081 times
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